Downtown is completely shut down on weekends (Saturdays too; it's not a Lord's day thing). What's the point? Nobody *lives* downtown, so when the offices are closed, there's nobody around to eat at the restaurants and shop on their lunch breaks. If you really want to see Raleigh, either go on a weekday (if you're into the historic stuff) or visit any one of the half-dozen or so local college campuses. Or go to the Warehouse district on a Friday night. Or walk around City Market on Saturdays. Or go bar-hopping all over Downtown any evening you care to -- including Sundays. Next time you come into town, Jough, I'll show you around.
It is an odd phenomenon, to have a downtown where nobody lives, but it's not unheard of in other cities. The other odd thing is that Downtown is tiny -- land was so cheap when it was built that it was more cost-effective to build out rather than up. So most of the cool stuff around here is out in the 'Burbs, and the skyline pic I posted -- well, that's the whole thing. It's unusual to see a building that's' more than 4 stories around here. On the campus where I work, the tallest building has 9 floors, and it's a landmark.
[Edit: BTW, Jough, you did not walk the entire city of Raleigh in an hour. Raleigh covers 110 square miles, and that's just within the city limits. There's more to a city than its tall buildings -- in the South, anyway.]