It is Fucked Up because these people on eBay are vultures who are exploiting a very real shortage. It is difficult to get Lutens non-export perfume unless you live in France or the EU. Their eBay shenanigans are like gas gouging after the September 11th attacks, except this is with a totally dispensable luxury cosmetic item and not with petrol. I paid about $160 for my bottle of Muscs Koublai Khan on eBay from a dude in France. Considering that shipping from France cost about $20, and that it would have cost me about $60 in total shipping costs if I had bought it directly from M. Lutens' salon in Paris, it was a damn good deal. I fuck*ng hate the grey market.
The only person who is authorized to sell Lutens' exclusive line is his salon in Paris. He won't allow anyone else to sell it, does not sell it wholesale, and does not ship outside the EU. These are people who are capitalizing on an exclusive product and trying to gouge unlucky folks outside the EU who don't have anyone who will act as their liason. The only places that are authorized to sell his "export" line are luxury retailers like Barneys and Aedes de Venustas. Bottles inevitably make it out of the official channels and get sold on the grey market. True, eBay is a place where anyone has the right to sell their personal goods, and (for example) Autodesk is having a hell of a time challenging someone in court who has been reselling Autodesk products online. Their argument is that they sell a license and he is therefore illegally selling copies of his software that he legally bought. M. Lutens has not and probably will never try to sue someone for reselling his perfume a la the Autodesk Hunt's Move, but I hope that he gets a whiff of the huge, untold profits that these eBay fugs are making...and that he could probably double his sales if he would sell to perfumistas outside the EU. There's also a Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido site in Japan, so perfumistas in Japan can buy his parfum, but I don't know anyone in Japan.
I hope that none of these eBay fucks will make a thin dime, and their €105 bottles go unsold until they finally relent and sell them at a fair price. Unfortunately, when M. Lutens came out with his latest, Sarrasins... I saw bottles of it going for $310 on eBay and it pains me that some poor sucker bought them, unaware of a better way.
Some things are best left to untraditional markets...but I feel that generally, the artist should profit from their art, which is why I have a huge problem with these fugs on eBay getting fat off M. Lutens' creations. Part of it is Lutens' fault for having such a tight stranglehold on his brand in order to create the "exclusivity" hype. If Lutens is a shrewd businessman, he will sell outside the EU and put the eBay vultures out of business.