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« on: December 29, 2007, 07:48:22 pm »
So yesterday evening, Linnea and I made the most grelicious chocolate eclairs. From scratch.
We used Fannie Farmer's recipes for pate a choux (the dough that becomes magically hollow when you bake it, discovered in Renaissance times, I hear) and Bavarian cream to fill 'em. Topped with a decadent chocolate ganache, made with the 60% cacao double chocolate chips from Ghiradelli and heavy cream. Magical.
Pate a Choux. I think the secret is briefly cooking the ball o' dough. Seriously. We had issues with getting the dough stiff enough, and I think it hearkens back to not cooking the flour enough (so it'll expand later, making a dough that is stiff and will hold its shape). After making 2 batches of the dough and experimenting, I've put my italicized comments in. Disclaimer: we made this at high altitude.
All right, Pate a Choux! From Fannie Farmer.
Set the oven at 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Put in a saucepan:
1/2 cup boiling water
1/4 cup butter
Heat until the butter melts [Note: it should probably be boiling]
Add, all at once,
1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour.
Stir hard until the dough forms a ball in the center of the pan. [I think that means a few minutes' stirring on the burner] Remove from the heat and let stand 5 minutes. Add
1 egg
Beat until well blended. [I think that means to beat the hell out of it. I hear that pate a choux really can't be overbeaten] Add
1 egg.
Beat as before. The mixture should be very stiff. If it is not, let it stand 10 minutes before shaping. [I found that spooning the dough into a ziplock bag and putting it in the refrigerator, 20 minutes or more, also helped]
Take up by spoonfuls and arrange on a cooky sheet, 2 inches apart. Use a tablespoon for larger puffs, a teaspoon for small ones. For eclairs: shape in finger-shaped oblongs, 1 by 4 1/2 inches. For perfect shaping, use a pastry bag and tube. I used a wet spatula to help make the free edge perfect.
Bake until there are NO beads of moisture on the puffs, about 20 minutes for small puffs. For large puffs, reduce the heat after 20 minutes and continue baking 10 to 20 minutes or until the puffs are firm and crusty.
If the puffs are not baked long enough, they will be soft rather than crisp. Test by taking one out of the oven. If it does not flatten down, the puffs are done.
Slit puffs with a sharp knife to let out the steam so that the puffs will be dry inside. [note: we split open the puffs & eclairs while hot, pulled out doughy bits inside, and briefly returned them to the oven so that the insides would be nice and dry. Worked well.
Cool. Fill with ice cream, whipped cream, or any cream filling. Makes 8 large puffs, 18 or more small ones.
~~~
Bavarian Cream
Mix in a saucepan
1 envelope gelatin (1 tablespoon)
Few grains salt
1/4 cup sugar
In a mixing bowl, beat together until well blended
2 egg yolks
1 1/4 cups milk
Add to the gelatin mixture. Cook and stir over low heat until the gelatin dissolves (about 5 minutes). Add
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Chill until the mixture begins to stiffen. Note: mixture will appear curdled. For uniform gelling, I beat it smooth before adding the beaten egg whites.
Beat until in soft peaks
2 egg whites
Beat in, a little at a time,
1/4 cup sugar
Fold into the gelatin mixture. Fold in
1/2 pint heavy cream, beaten stiff.
Mold in individual molds or one large mold. Unmold and garnish or flavor as suggested for Spanish Cream. Serves 6. We tried piping the cream into the eclairs, as well as spooning it in. Personally, given the nice firm texture of the Bavarian cream, I think carefully spooning it in gives better structural results. But either way, it's freakin' delicious.
~~~
The ganache I made:
heat 2/3 cup heavy cream in a saucepan over medium heat until tiny bubbles appear around the edges. Turn off heat, add 12 oz. of Ghiradelli 60% cacao chocolate chips. Stir. Mixture will be lumpy. Slowly add more cream (room temperature or chilled), stirring well, until mixture is thick and glossy. Spread on tops of filled eclairs with a spoon. Chill, uncovered, until ganache is set.